SI THEP (Thailand) (AFP) – Amidst the blistering sun, Thai archaeologist Tanachaya Tiandee navigates the ruins of ancient pagodas in the historic town of Si Thep, endeavoring to unlock their mysteries. However, this task has been made notably challenging due to the fact that pieces of the puzzle are missing, a result of decades of looting.
Thailand boasts a rich array of historical sites, yet many have fallen victim to foreign plundering, leaving the country striving to reclaim its pilfered cultural heritage.
“The big picture like the building was discovered, but the artefacts which tell little details are missing, making a lot of stories untold about Si Thep,” Tanachaya shared with AFP. She likens it to a puzzle with a crucial piece missing.
The sprawling 400-hectare complex, estimated by archaeologists to date back between 1,500 to 1,700 years, is currently under consideration for inclusion in UNESCO’s cultural world heritage list—a potential milestone for Thailand, which hasn’t added a site since 1992.
As 33-year-old Tanachaya meticulously excavates the ancient stone structures, she faces the formidable challenge of piecing together the narrative of Si Thep, located around 200 kilometers (120 miles) north of Bangkok.
Over the years, at least 20 objects are believed to have been stolen from the site, with experts confirming 11 of them in museums in the United States. The actual number of looted items is suspected to be much higher due to a lack of documentation.
Now, Tanachaya, who harbored dreams of becoming a Thai version of the iconic movie character Indiana Jones since her youth, and her colleagues embark on their own quest: Can they repatriate their nation’s cultural treasures?
‘Won’t Accelerate’
In 2017, Thailand’s government, then under military leadership, established the Committee to Monitor Thai Antiquities Abroad. Since then, approximately 340 objects have been voluntarily returned to Thailand, according to the committee’s latest report.
However, the process is deliberate, partly due to government officials being cautious about potentially jeopardizing diplomatic relations, especially with significant allies like the United States.
Thai authorities have opted for a “discreet” diplomatic approach, as explained by Phnombootra Chandrachoti, the director-general of Thailand’s Department of Fine Arts. “We won’t accelerate anything,” he told AFP.
The Norton Simon Museum in California, USA, is known to hold nine Thai artefacts, including one believed to be from Si Thep park, as per the committee’s recent statement. These items are among 32 scattered across various U.S. museums.
The museum responded to AFP by stating that they had not been contacted by the Thai government but would cooperate with authorities if approached. They also defended holding the items, asserting that the works had been legally acquired and had been carefully preserved and displayed.
Dilemma Over Tourism
Thai historians face another dilemma: Si Thep’s bid for UNESCO recognition could bolster the local economy but may also strain the fragile ancient site.
Currently, only 1 percent of visitors to Phetchabun, the province home to Si Thep, are foreigners, according to official 2019 data. The Thai government envisions UNESCO designation as a boost to the country’s tourism sector, which contributes nearly 20 percent to the nation’s GDP.
However, conservation concerns loom large. Si Thep Historical Park head Sittichai Pooddee noted that the site is already nearing its maximum capacity of around 2,000 tourists daily. He emphasized the importance of finding a balance and avoiding over-promotion.
The absence of stolen artifacts leaves gaps in the historical record, making it challenging to satisfy the curiosity of tourists visiting the site, observed Thai historian Tanongsak Hanwong. These artifacts play a crucial role in dignifying Thailand’s rich civilization of the past.
At Si Thep’s serene complex, domestic visitors admire a intricately carved pagoda wall while contemplating the heritage that belongs to the Thai people. Chaowarat Munprom, a 66-year-old retiree, expressed, “It’s the heritage that belongs to Thai people, and that we are proud of. It would be a pity not to get it back. It once belonged here.”